Some mornings I'm lucky and the surfers turn up to entertain me as I walk. I'll admit, I'm a bit jealous of their skill and bravery. I don't see me taking up surfing while I'm here, but I do admire those who do it and who love it enough to get up crazy early every morning.
I'm not going to take up a new career as an action photographer any time soon, but trying to get clear shots of them actually standing up is a challenge that keeps me pushing my skill lever. So far it is more about luck than skill, but I'm improving.
A friend looked at this photo and asked how I got his perfectly lined up with the horizon, I wish I could say that was planned and carefully composed...but the truth is it just happened.
I'm actually starting to think there are some similarities to surfing and photography. I watch the surfers spend time out in the water, watching for that perfect wave. They try and set up for it to hit it and the right exact moment. Sometimes they fail and sometimes they don't and get a spectacular ride. The secret to both seems to be keep trying.
"Speak your mind, just be bold."
Michael Kiwanuka -
Home Again
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